Terraces are opulent luxuries in large cities. In the midst of Mexico City’s urban sprawl, you can find a rooftop restaurant located on the seventh floor with a direct view of the Monumento a la Revolución: Arango, Cocina de Raíces. Here the fresh air is welcome, and the Art Deco style combines well with the surroundings of the Tabacalera neighborhood.
Just one floor above the popular Terraza Cha Cha Chá, Arango boasts the same taste for incredible views and open spaces but adds a touch more charm and sophistication. For example, the large windows frame three cardinal points, and the decoration is elegant, featuring large lamps and fine glassware. At just the right time of the day, the lattice ceiling perfectly breaks the light.
At Arango, the kitchen is headed by Alejandro Cuatepotzo, who trained with Óscar Rito and Enrique Olvera. Also, he is the chef of Antonia Bistro in San Miguel de Allende. Cuatepotzo originally hails from Puebla, Arango’s main regional influence in terms of its dishes. However, you can also find ingredients from the Yucatán Peninsula and Baja California, which were the chef’s temporary homes.
The recipes are elaborate and meticulously presented. However, that does not mean that formality reigns at Arango. On the contrary, it is a restaurant that serves as a reminder that good food and attentive service can be found in a light-hearted setting. For example, the menu boasts poblano lamb tacos, sweet potato soup with beef tongue barbecue, roasted Yucatecan pumpkin with green mole, roasted milk chicken with red pipián (a type of squash), or confit duck with mancha manteles mole.
The portion sizes are more than fair. In fact, the chef’s intention is that each table orders several dishes to taste and share. As for the ingredients, the fish and shellfish come from Erick Guerrero’s sustainable fishing project in Veracruz and Ensenada; the restaurant seeks out chili peppers and condiments from Oaxaca; the vegetables are from Yolcan and some ingredients from San Miguel de Allende.
In Arango, it is easy to find yourself staying for hours basking in the sun. Also, if you’re looking for a spot to watch the sunset or admire the city by night, this is definitely the place to go. There is no obligation to order a dish in order to enjoy the views. Instead, you can simply go to enjoy one of the bars. We recommend the “jamaiquita” from their cocktail menu: mezcal, chili liquor, and lemon.
Soon, the restaurant will also have a tasting menu and possibly a breakfast service. For now, there is enough room for customers to comfortably enjoy the experience, a decent view from nearly every table, good food, delicious drinks, and the fresh air that seems lost at the street level.
Adapted and translated by Evan Upchurch
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